Great Dismal Swamp Canal Trail Ride
I had been thinking (a dangerous pastime, I know) that sometimes what Susan and I really need is a little adventure in our lives. And what could be more adventurous than a bike trail that is home to a large population of black bears?! Time to go to the Great Dismal Swamp Canal Trail in Chesapeake, Virginia. Susan did not consider the prospect of trying to out-pedal black bears an adventure; in fact, she thought it sounded pretty foolish. But I talked her into going anyway. She’s a good sport. Besides, she pedals faster than I do. You know the old joke…
Before our ride, I did a little research on the canal itself only to find that its history is as long as the founding of our country itself. It would be a grave omission to write about the canal and the trail without acknowledging its origins.
The canal itself was created to (indirectly) link the Chesapeake Bay in Virginia to the Albemarle Sound as a means of transporting goods. The now 22 mile canal was begun in 1793 and completed in 1805. The history includes such notables as George Washington and Patrick Henry, but the real credit for the construction needs to be given to the slaves, hired from local landowners, who dug it: they averaged 10 feet per day, working in brutal conditions, prying and cutting underwater roots with hand tools. The current canal is 6’ deep and 100’ wide, with a navigation channel of 50’.
Equally fascinating reading is about the “maroons,” communities of escaped slaves who found small rises of land inside the Dismal Swamp, known as “mesic islands.” Between the 1600’s and the Civil War, it is estimated that as many as 50,000 lived in these areas. This also made the swamp play an important role in the Underground Railroad.
Even though I grew up in Virginia, as a child, these things were never taught in the classroom. My mom took me and my brother down to the Great Dismal Swamp when we were kids, but mostly for the outdoors experience, not the history.
It occurs to me that, as we biked along the road parallel to the canal, it became even more meaningful and impressive knowing the history behind the canal. In our textbooks, recognition for the accomplishments of our nation often goes to the financial backers, and—sadly—not to the backs on which they were built.
Oh, and the closest we got to any real wildlife adventures was a small blacksnake scurrying off the road. I guess that will have to do for now.
Links to websites for additional reading:
http://www.virginiaplaces.org/watersheds/drummond.html
http://www.virginiaplaces.org/transportation/dismalswampcanal.html
The 411 on the Ride:
Date: July 17, 2020
Distance: 20.4 miles
Elevation gain: 38 feet
Time: ~1.5 – 2 hrs
Circuit: No loop, strictly out and back
Parking: There are two main parking areas, at the northern and southern entrances (see below)
North: 1200 Dismal Swamp Canal Trail, Chesapeake, VA 23322
South: 3700 Dismal Swamp Canal Trail, Chesapeake, VA 23322
(Take US 17 south from the north trailhead and turn right onto Ballahack Road. Limited parking is available along the trail; a short stretch here is still open to vehicular traffic)
Extensions: Can be extended north past onto a bike trail that parallels the main road and ends at the Deep Creek Park sports facility (which also has ample parking). Can also be extended south, but not sure how far (definitely into North Carolina…seems that there is a a welcome center a bit further down, but our our legs were getting tired!).
Websites:
https://www.visitchesapeake.com/listing/dismal-swamp-canal-trail/161/
http://www.cityofchesapeake.net/page3002.aspx
Notes by the Miles:
0.0 At Ballahack Road, South Trailhead entrance. Has a tool stand for maintenance. Go north past the gate to access the trail proper.
2.5 Restroom building facility.
6.0 North trailhead parking entrance (with restrooms) …links to a northern extension that is a paved trail, but no longer a motor vehicle road converted to bikeway.
8.3 Trail ends at Deep Creek Park.
Susan and I passed on the northern trailhead and went to the southern entrance given on Waze, at Ballahack Road. The spot featured ample parking, but most critically, a porta-potty. The beginning of the trail is easy to spot—they have taken an old section of Route 17 and have gated it off from motor vehicles and converted it to cycling and pedestrian use only. The first ½ mile traveling north from Ballahack is in the sun, but the main part of the trail is shaded. (South from Ballahack is also open sun.) The road is well-maintained, wide, and would be excellent for cycling with the kiddos (unlike the Cap Trail). We encountered occasional trees down on part of the trail, but the road was wide enough that it was never an issue. There are several areas to stop and pull over to rest with benches and tables and a view of the canal. Several stops have informational/historical placards.
Despite the name, it never felt like we were biking IN the Great Dismal Swamp. The ride was nearly completely flat, as you would expect next to a canal. The route is also absolutely straight. If you think the map only LOOKS like a straight shot because of being zoomed out and there may be some turns, sorry. This is straight. The road gives occasional views of the canal itself, but is often obscured by a riparian buffer between the road and the canal. At different intervals there were gates across the trail to prevent motor vehicle access. We only had to cross a road once, and that was at the end to reach Deep Creek Park. On our return, we passed the Ballahack Road parking lot and continued south for a while, past another set of gates, before turning around and ending the ride.
We really appreciated the thought and care that went into the trail. And there is obvious community investment as well. If you see an older couple picking up trash from the trail, please say hello and tell them “thank you.” This is most definitely a ride that we will be returning to.
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